The Secret To Installing a Suspension Fork On a Hybrid

A suspension fork can be installed on a hybrid. The travel of the fork will have to be small to preserve the original geometry of the bike and avoid excessive stress on the head tube.

The installation of a suspension fork on a hybrid is of questionable value and can sometimes create more problems than advantages.

Requirements For Installing a Suspension Fork On a Hybrid

1. Head Tube and Fork Steerer Tube Compatibility

Bicycle Frame Anatomy

The inner diameter of the head tube filters the forks that the frame can accept.

Currently, most head tubes are designed for forks that have a steerer tube that’s 1 1/8″ (28.57mm) in diameter. (Note: The steerer tube is the part of the fork that goes through the head tube.)

The nominal internal diameter of standard head tubes is 34mm. In reality, the diameter is smaller than that so that the cups inserted into the headtube fit tightly.

The external diameter of the headtube is not important when it comes to fork compatibility. It’s also worth mentioning that the head tube’s total size is dependent on the bike’s geometry and the material used for the frame (aluminum tubes are larger than steel ones).

That said, some old school bikes have a top tube designed for 1″ forks. Those frames cannot accept a standard suspension fork because the steerer will not pass through the head tube.

There are also head tubes that taper from 1 1/8″ to 1/5″. Or in other words, the headtube’s diameter augments towards the tire. The purpose of this architecture is to increase the stiffness of the fork.

A Tapered Fork

It’s possible to install a tapered fork on a non-tapered head tube with the help of an adapter that acts as a headset cup outside of the frame. This approach raises the bike’s front end ever so slightly.

It’s also possible to install a standard 1 1/8″ fork on a tapered head tube with the help of a reducer which fills the gap that would otherwise form.

Long Story Short…

If the hybrid is newer, chances are that it has a 1 1/8″ to 1/5″ tapered head tube. Thus, the simplest move would be to install a tapered fork on it. In some cases, however, it will be difficult to find one that satisfies the other requirements.

If the hybrid is older and/or a budget model, it probably has a 1 1/8″ head tube. In some cases, this will be beneficial because most forks with short travel are of that size.

2. Fork Length

The fork’s length has a direct influence on the bike’s geometry. If the new fork is shorter than the original one, it will steepen the head tube angle. If it’s longer, it will slacken the head tube angle.

The head tube angle is the angle formed by the headtube and the ground. (image below)

A steeper head tube angle lowers the front end and positions more of the rider’s weight on the front wheel. In extreme cases, the bike may become unsafe to ride.

That said, this scenario is unlikely because most suspension forks are longer than rigid forks. The extra length is needed because the fork compresses and technically shortens even more. In the bottom position, the fork should still be long enough to prevent extreme steeping of the head tube angle.

An extra slack head tube angle positions the weight of the rider closer to the rear tire and makes climbing harder. Also, the stance is less aerodynamic because the rider is more upright and their torso creates additional drag. Since hybrids are built for speed and comfort this could be an issue.

Ensuring Minimal Changes To The Geometry

To minimize the changes to the geometry, it’s necessary to find a fork with an axle to crown length equal to that of the existing one.

The Axle to Crown Length is the distance between the middle of the axle to the top of the crown. In the case of suspension forks, the ACL is measured when the fork isn’t compressed.

3. Steerer Length

The steerer of threadless forks is cut to length via a pipe cutter or a hacksaw to suit the needs of the particular bike and rider.

If the fork is new, the steerer will be long enough for any bike, but if the fork is purchased second-hand, it will already be pre-cut for the needs of another rider and his machine. If the steerer is longer than necessary for the new set-up, the extra length isn’t an issue.

But if the steerer is too short, then the fork is unusable unless one is willing to play with steerer extenders.

4. Fork Travel

Modern MTB forks come with a lot of travel (140mm or more) and are therefore not suitable for a hybrid as they will raise the front end too much while also stressing the head tube substantially.

The head tube of a hybrid can’t deal with as much travel. A crack or total disintegration of the unit might take place.

Thus, it’s recommended to stick with forks that have 80-120mm of travel. (120mm may also be too much in some cases.)

The Advantages Of Installing a Suspension Fork On a Hybrid

  • Cushioning

The main motivation behind installing a suspension fork on a hybrid is to make the front end softer and reduce the vibrations reaching the rider.

A suspension fork helps with that task, but people often expect too much of it. A suspension fork shines when it has to overcome small to medium obstacles. If the entire road is full of small bumps it will not be as effective. In a situation like that, a wide tire operating at relatively low air pressure will do a lot more to “soften the road”.

The Disadvantages of Installing a Suspension Fork On a Hybrid

A suspension fork on a hybrid offers many disadvantages such as:

  • Extra Cost and Labor

The first problem will be finding a fork of the right size to preserve the geometry of the hybrid. Then, one has to factor in the time and skill needed to swap the forks.

An experienced mechanic can do that in 30 minutes, but someone who has never done similar upgrades will need a lot more time. It will also be necessary to buy several tools to complete the operation.

Note: It’s recommended to stay away from the most generic suspension forks out there because they offer poor performance, limited adjustments, and weigh a lot. Often it’s better to stick with a rigid fork and try to soften the ride via another method (e.g., bigger tires) than go for a low-end suspension fork.

  • Extra Weight

Suspension forks are almost always heavier than rigid forks due to the greater number of parts and the suspension mechanism. Unless the user goes for a fairly expensive lightweight suspension fork, extra weight will be added to the machine.

As a result, the front end will feel heavier and less snappy.

  • Non-compatible With Different Accessories

A suspension fork complicates the use of accessories such as full fenders and front racks. It’s still possible to equip the bike with those extras, but the choice will be limited and the installation won’t be as simple as possible.

  • Maintenance

A suspension fork has moving parts and is therefore “alive”. The user will have to periodically replace the lubricating and the suspension oil in the fork. It will also be necessary to change the seals and the O-rings.

In some cases, those consumables will add up to 20-50% of the fork’s original price. Meanwhile, a rigid fork requires no maintenance other than greasing the steerer tube and inspecting the unit for cracks periodically.

  • Inefficiency

Suspension forks “eat” some of the energy that the rider transfers to the pedals. Hence why some models have an option to lock them. A locked suspension fork doesn’t compress and allows the rider to transmit maximum force to the pedals. This option is especially helpful when climbing out of the saddle.

In different, rigid forks don’t have this problem and are therefore considered significantly more efficient when covering large distances.

FAQ: How can I create a suspension effect without installing a suspension fork on my hybrid?

  • Wider Tires

The wider the tire, the lower its air pressure has to be to avoid pinch flats. Lower air pressure keeps the tire soft and allows it to deform to a greater extent when meeting an obstacle.

  • Tubeless Tires

Tubeless tires can run lower PSI than standard tires because there isn’t an inner tube that can be damaged as a result of the lower air pressure. This is one of the reasons why modern MTBs adopted tubeless set-ups.

That said, a tubeless tire isn’t always practical for commuting purposes.

  • Softer, Ergonomic Grips

The wrists receive a lot of the vibrations generated by the tires. To reduce some of the stress, one can change the grips to a more ergonomic model.

  • Suspension stems

Another less popular option would be to install a suspension stem.

Suspension stems used to be criticized, but the newer models are getting positive reviews. The main advantage of a suspension stem is that it’s a lot easier to install and offers greater compatibility.

The downside is the small travel and to some extent the price.

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